The most impactful way to customize your tote is to adapt the size. This simple change takes the same shape from a tiny party favor bag to a large shopping sack. In this episode of Rock the Tote, I’ll show you a few size variations and provide you with easy equations to tweak your next tote to perfectly fit its contents.
This one went sideways
By simply swapping the height and width measurements on the body pieces (i.e., 15″x17″ rather than 17″x15″), you get a slightly shorter bag that opens wider. Easier to fish around for those bottom-dwellers! I especially prefer this shape for transporting crochet or knitting works-in-progress. ETA: For this width, move the straps in another inch (making the marks 3½” from each side seam).
I embellished it with an embroidered running stitch in place of the machine topstitching, on both the straps and the finished top edge. Tip: If you hand stitch the top edge like this, it’s helpful to do so before closing the gap in the lining. That way, you can insert the needle between the layers to hide the knotted ends.
Innit cute
So many possibilities for these little ones! Party favor totes, just-the-right-size gift bags… They can even be used as tiny bucket organizers.
The one shown here is just about small enough to require the last few steps to be sewn entirely by hand. As it was, I was nowhere near able to use my machine’s free arm, and working my way around that top edge seam was lay-on-the-bed-to-zip-up-your-jeans tight. By the time I got to the topstitching, I just hand stitched it to avoid the calisthenics.
After that rockin’ sales pitch, if you still want to make this size… here are the specs:
Step 1: The finished size of this one is 5″x5″x1½”, so cut the body pieces 7¼”x6″. The finished handles are 5″ long x 1″ wide, so cut those pieces 7″x3″.
Step 2: Make the straps using a 1/2″ seam allowance when stitching up the long edge.
Step 3: Cut a 1″ square from the corners when constructing the box bottom. Then, when stitching across the corner, use a 1/4″ seam allowance. (This little bitty tote is the only time I depart from the process described in the corner square/depth notes at the end of this post. I did that just because I found a 1″ square easier to work with when lining up the seams and getting the corner straight.)
Step 4: Leave only a 2½” gap in the lining, ensuring it’s centered along the bottom edge.
Step 5: The mark for handle placement is 3/4″ from each side seam.
i meant to do that
During my prototyping for the original Rock the Tote, I made this one:
It may not look much different from the original, but it’s two inches narrower. I immediately felt it was too narrow for its height, but I finished it anyway. Then I used it to carry some books to a meeting, and I discovered that it was perfect for this function — any wider and the books would have shifted around too much. The only modification for this one is to the four body pieces, which measure 17″x13″.
not just window shopping
Finally, I present the Rock the Tote version of the big brown bag. Except not brown. And mine’s never been used at Bloomie’s. But whatever.
I designed the size of this bag to be as big as reasonable without dragging on the ground. To that end, I used short handles rather than shoulder straps. For reference, I’m 5’6″, so your mileage may vary. Ah, the beauty of sewing… customize your pants AND your bags to your height.
Also, due to the size and intended purpose of this tote, I made an insert to help the bottom hold its shape (details below). I used an ultra-heavyweight interfacing for my insert, which I like because it’s durable, washable, and doesn’t add weight to the bag. You can use whatever you have on hand — plastic needlepoint canvas, cardboard, even thin plywood would work.
Want to know how to do the piping at the top edge? See Rock the Tote: rickrack and Rock the Tote: piping!
Here are the other changes:
In step 1: The finished size of this one is 18″x24″x6″, so cut the body pieces 22½”x25″. The handles are 16″ long x 1½” wide when finished, so cut the handle pieces 18″x4½”.
If you want to add the structured bottom insert, cut two additional pieces from your lining fabric, 19¼”x7¼”. Also, cut two 18″x6″ pieces of ultra-heavyweight sew-in interfacing (such as Peltex 70). Stack the two pieces of interfacing and baste them together.
Step 3: Cut a 3″ square from the corners when constructing the box bottom.
Step 4: Leave a 6″ gap along the lining’s bottom edge.
Step 5: The mark for handle placement should be 6″ from each side seam. (If you’re using piping for your bag and don’t need no stinkin’ tutorial for it, make sure you baste on the piping before attaching the straps.)
Step 8: Make the bottom insert. Working with the insert pieces you cut from your lining fabric, press one short edge 1/2″ to the wrong side; repeat on the other insert piece. Place the pieces right sides together, with raw edges and pressed edges aligned. Stitch around three sides, leaving the pressed edge open. Turn right side out. Insert the double-thickness of interfacing. It’s a snug fit, I know, but it’ll go! Slipstitch or whipstitch the open end closed. Place insert into the bottom of your tote, tacking them together at the corners, if desired.
formula for success
It’s easy to calculate the size of pieces needed for your own custom tote using these formulas. I wish there was a way for me to explain it without math, but I’ll make it as painless as I can!
